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Hefty cork wedges and jointed wooden soles filled the gap left by a scarcity of shoe leather, and by 1943, it seemed that as the wedge heels got higher, hats became more exaggerated to balance the look. Hats with small crowns, upturned brims worn forward and to one side, based on prewar designs by Elsa Schiaparelli, were the order of the day. But perhaps this was a deliberate snub to the unpopular Vichy regime, which in the early 1940s had tried to get its supporters to wear berets. Haute Couture Collaborators?
M A small waist makes the most of a rounded hipline. Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, was dressed by Mainbocher for many years and remained a style leader well into middle age. mThis two-piece playsuit by American designer Addie Masters is made from synthetic fabric in a rather jazzy pattern. The 40s r_4c 9/27/06 3:36 PM Page 40 40 British Designers at War Women in Uniform The recruitment of women into the British armed services from 1938 required new uniforms to be designed, usually based on those of the men.
The immensely popular “peekaboo” hairstyle worn by American movie star Veronica Lake, with its cascade of hair over one eye, was now considered hazardous. When appealed to, Veronica Lake patriotically, and very publicly, changed to a short style in the hope that her fans would copy her. mVeronica Lake, before and after. The 40s r_4c 9/27/06 3:36 PM Page 31 31 Seams an Illusion Silk and nylon stockings were in short supply: in Britain, they had vanished from shops completely by December 1940. Pants hid their absence, but women also resorted to Cyclax Stocking-less Cream, or other forms of leg makeup, completing the illusion of stockings by drawing “seams” down the back of the legs with an eyebrow pencil.